Niman goes Big Organic

The SF Chronicle has a detailed and fascinating article today describing how Bill Niman, founder of Niman Ranch, has been forced out from the company he started.

Niman Ranch was the original poster child for the now-common practice of identifying the provenance of every item on the menu at gourmet organic restaurants: i.e. Cheeseburger with Niman Ranch beef, Coach Farms Goat Cheese, and [insert name of heirloom lettuce producer] spring mix. But it turns out that the company has been losing money for quite some time, resulting in a takeover by its largest investor, Chicago's Natural Food Holdings LLC.

The biggest change seems to be the methods used for "finishing" and slaughtering cattle. Niman had for several years purchased grass-fed cattle raised at various farms in the Northwest, but had always insisted that they be shipped to his ranch near the end of their lives. This ensured that the quality of grain and lodgings they received met his standards, which resulted in the extremely high quality beef the brand is known for. The problem, according to the article, is that such a practice was too expensive. Natural Food Holdings has since sold the company-owned feedlot.

Bill Niman now refuses to eat Niman Ranch beef, asserting that it no longer meats meets his standards. The new company argues the contrary, but defending some of their practices by saying they meet "USDA regulations" does little to inspire confidence (it is the very weakness of USDA standards that led so many conscientious eaters to Niman Ranch and its emulators in the first place).

The upshot seems to me that Niman is now part of what Michael Pollan refers to as "Big Organic." It's still much better than conventional/industrially produced beef. The cows grow up on family-owned farms, and roam in big grassy meadows for most of their lives. But the need for this big company to make big bucks may result in compromises that conflict with the image it likes to present to the public.